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My orchid needs help!

By CATHY DUNN - Garden Club of Cape Coral | May 20, 2022

A Phalaenopsis orchids mounted on a tree. CATHY DUNN

I imagine that among our readers there are many moms who received orchid plants for Mother’s Day – and after a month of enjoying their new plant they might have questions on how to maintain their gifts, or even worse they may be encountering problems. So, it felt like a good time to review some common issues that orchids encounter and to provide a little guidance for their care.

You might notice that your orchid doesn’t look as vibrant as when you received it; this might be because your orchid came from a greenhouse environment and now it’s living in your air-conditioned home with less-than-ideal light conditions. It’s not the cool air that the orchids don’t like – it’s the lack of humidity. In their natural environment, orchids are enveloped in warm humid air and receive filtered light which provides growth and blooming cues as the days become shorter and longer; in our homes, artificial light can confuse the plants’ regular schedule. Orchids also use the change in temperature when nights become cooler as a prompt to initiate blooms; in your home the temperature remains fairly constant all year and the orchid loses a vital growth hint.

One of the biggest dilemmas facing orchid growers is determining when to water your plant. Orchids need ample water, but they should be allowed to dry out between waterings; generally once a week works well and is easy to remember. The key to watering orchids is NOT to overwater, but rather water the plant liberally, allowing the water to pour from the bottom of the pot until the plant and potting media are saturated. Make sure the plant has drained completely before you return it to a decorative pot.

I cringe every time I see a tag on orchids which suggests that you can use an ice cube to water your plant. NEVER use ice cubes on your orchid! There are many reasons why ice cubes are not recommended for your orchid; the preferred way to water your orchids as explained above is to flush water through the plant, and ice cubes slowly deliver moisture and allow the roots to stay moist for extended periods. In addition, ice cubes only water a small area as they melt; they do not spread water throughout the pot. And a slowly melting ice cube can saturate potting media like sphagnum moss and cause root rot. When ice cubes melt, the water is usually less than 55 degrees – NO orchid encounters water of that temperature in the wild. And finally, if any part of the plant or roots comes in direct contact with the ice cube, it can harm the orchid’s delicate tissues.

Perhaps you are wondering what the best strategy is for feeding your orchids; the usual recommendation is that you feed “weakly, weekly” at about one quarter strength fertilizer each time you water. Orchids need to be fed regularly and a balanced fertilizer of 20-20-20 that also includes trace elements is most beneficial. Some growers recommend that you fertilize 3 weeks each month and then on the fourth week use only water to flush any remaining fertilizer salts from your orchid’s potting mixture.

A Phalaenopsis orchid. CATHY DUNN

If your orchid has finished blooming, do you know when or if to cut the bloom spike? Of the most commonly available orchids only the Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) will rebloom from its old spike. When the last flower fades you can leave the spike on and it will continue flowering, but the stem will become very long, and the flowers will be smaller. Some growers cut the stem off entirely at the base where it comes out of the leaves, and it will bloom again in several months. The stem can also be cut leaving 2 nodes on the stem; one of the nodes will initiate and produce flowers in 8-12 weeks.

Once your plant has bloomed, how do you know when to repot it? As a rule, orchids can be repotted every year after they bloom; repotting is most effective in the spring which will provide a good season for root growth. Your orchid should be potted in the smallest pot that will accommodate the roots in a good orchid mix that has multiple media (such as perlite, peat moss, coco bark, large fir bark) to provide an open and airy environment for the roots. Clear plastic pots are preferable so that you can observe the roots and ensure that they receive light for photosynthesis. Remember: orchids do not grow in pots in the wild – we put them in pots for our convenience! Healthy root growth is the best indicator of your orchid’s health, unlike other plants that are judged by their leaf growth.

A final consideration is mounting your orchids on trees in your landscape. I no longer maintain orchids in pots, but rather have colorful blooms all year throughout my gardens. It’s an easy way to return your orchids to the environment they prefer, and a beautiful highlight to your subtropical landscape.

No matter how you choose to enjoy your orchids they will be a reminder of the thoughtful person who gave you such a marvelous gift!

Cathy Dunn is a Lee County Master Gardener Volunteer and Garden Club of Cape Coral member.